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For.."Salvaging" SMT components, I just use a "Power Paint Stripper" (Heat gun). You could use a toaster oven, but you'd have to use one that you don't plan to use food in again.

yeah that extra port can be used for imports, because i used ah gameshark-esque device to allow imports, yeah and also a spring to insert just below the cd cover hinge, it would press a sorta button (don't know why that's needed) well anyways it worked like a charm until my PS1 got mad at me and ...

If they're 1.5V LED's, just 8. LED's don't really cut down on current as much as they do voltage - The voltage rating is the voltage DROP. 1.5V drop * 8 LED's = 12V, which is a circuit that wouldn't require any resistors (so long as they're in series). At the proper voltage, they'd draw about 40mA.

If the electrolytic caps are of a very, very small capacitance (Like...low uF to high nF) then you can go ahead and replace them. If they're blue, you might not want to replace them, since as far as I can remember, blue are decoupling caps.

When in doubt, use a multimeter.

A quick reminder if you use a hub (god forbid) or a switch: You have to manually set the network IP addresses, or (if you have WinXP SP2) it'll say that there's "Limited Connectivity". You can set the IP addresses in the network adaptor's properties, in TCP/IP Protocol's settings.

ANNND a quick tip ...

Whip out the ol' microscope and check, and if you really don't find anything on any parts that you soldered/desoldered, the resistance might just be the normal resistance that comes from going through the circuitry.

Finished it, I'll yank the mobo out again and take a few pics. The LC63X's could be overclocked by just changing a few surface mount resistors, which ended up being nerve wrenching, but not too hard. Yanked the resistors off their current seats with a desoldering tool, and soldered them back on to ...

Has anyone here tried overclocking an old m68k Mac? I'm looking to see if anyone has any experience doing before OCing my 33Mhz 68LC040 to 40Mhz.

Might not be the best forum to ask on, but it's worth a shot.

Positive to Positive, Negative to Negative.

timmeh87 wrote:shouldnt input-, output- and power- all be connected together?

also, if its direct form a wall wart, it might need to be filtered. (100uf cap)

I don't know if they should all be together, if I did and it worked, I wouldn't be asking for help here

Alright, I'll use a cap for the power.

http://img201.imageshack.us/my.php?image=chiplm9.jpg

Sorry for the doublepost, but here's a diagram I drew up in Paint (Yuck)

I set it up exactly like the non-inverting setup, 10k both resistors, but I'm getting about 0% output from my original signal. Though my speaker does output noise.

The SiS 530/620 is similar to what I have running on my (much) older server (It's running an SiS 530/5595, Super Socket 7). A 450-ish processor should be able to run XP fine, my 380Mhz with 192MB memory runs it great, you just have to turn off all the eye candy that slows it down.

Alright: I looked it up and did it, but still no dice. This is what I used: http://colomar.com/Shavano/op-amp3.gif . I used 10k's on both R1 and R2, and I followed the schem exactly, except putting the inverting input on ground, which I put on -In. Arg, I must be stupid or something.

Just to make ...