A photo of the Xbox One, stolen off the internet

After a record long console generation (8 years, double the 4 between Xbox and 360) we finally get word of the new Xbox One. The first impression is that nobody in MS marketing knows how to count. We went from 1, to 360, to 1 again. Of course, no first console is called “One” in its lifetime but for the first time ever the numbering goes backwards? Reboot perhaps?

All jargon aside, the only, and I mean ONLY reason the 360 was called such was because in the battle-that-never-happened of Xbox 2 versus Playstation 3, which sounded better? Remember, consumers are stupid (see the Twilight films). This time around, I think they’re going for a play on words, ie, Xbox One sounds like “Xbox WON”, some sort of subliminal advertising. As Red Letter Media would saw “You may not have noticed, but your brain did”

Click below to read more of my impressions.

MS showed us a lot more in their reveal than Sony did, and by that I mean the actual console and even the insides of it. The guts are almost exactly the same layout as the current Xbox Slim, except the heatsink is larger (they’re taking no chances this time) and it’s a slot-loading slimmer Blu-Ray driver rather than the clunky full-sized PC-style 5 1/4 DVD drive.

Here’s what I see by looking at the photos from Wired:

• There will be an external power brick. Internal power circuits = heat = failure. After a billion dollars lost, MS is going to be very conservative about this.
• The design already looks very optimized, a far cry from how the 2005 model 360′s looked.
• The chip under the Blu-Ray is the Southbridge, the IC that takes care of IO ports, controllers, communications, etc.
• The 8 digit LED’s are probably developer debug.

MS used a lot of buzzwords in their speech today, none of which matter because the big question on everyone’s mind right now is “Can it play used games?”

Here’s my guess for how it will work:

• You buy a game at the store still because a) There isn’t enough broadband to support 30 gig games b) Retail stores want physical games to sell OR a high markup on hardware (Apple)
• You install the game to HDD before play (like PC has done for seventy million years)
• You can run the game off HDD without the disc. Let’s face it, installing to HDD but still needing the disc on 360 is fairly lame.
• The game loads incredibly faster and streams much better textures because developers don’t have to dumb down the data rate to what a DVD can do.
• Your Blu-Ray drive is barely used, increasing the reliability of the console (RROD aside, the DVD was another larger failure point on the 360)
• When done with a game, you “de-activate it” from your account (like switching iTunes or Adobe to a new computer) and then take the disc to the upscale pawn shop known as Gamestop.
• You wonder why the HDD is only 500 gigs when a Blu-Ray install will take 10-20 gigs thus limiting you to around 20 games total installed.
• You also wonder why used games are such a big deal when Apple and Steam make money hand over fist, with absolutely no way to resale.

Used games sales are one of those “can’t see the forest for the trees” situations. For decades publishers worried about piracy, all the while Gamestop was cleaning up with the used market. Suddenly there’s this new, phantom menace and it’s not the one you spent so much time worrying about. See also: Concern about kids playing violent games when the real issue is childhood obesity caused by a sedentary lifestyle. (Soda doesn’t make you fat, Soda + Inactivity does)

If [anywhere but South Korea]‘s internet was up to the task, we’d have download-only console already, completing solving the used game “problem”. But we’re not there yet, so we’ve got to deal with a disc/interest based solution. Cracking down on used sales is one of those “who blinks first” scenarios, and it looks like MS just blinked. Don’t go rushing to PS4 in revenge just yet, because in their desire to be publisher-friendly (adios Cell!) they’ve probably done the same.

Here are my hopes for this new console:

• If you’re a media hub, work quickly. My Xbox 360 these days is just a Mad Men / Breaking Bad adapter, and it seems to take 10 layers of menus to open a new episode of Don Draper standing in an elevator.
• If you’re going to tie a Kinect to every box, I should be able to walk into my living room as say “Xbox, play the latest episode of Pawn Stars” or “Show me the latest movie releases excluding Adam Sandler”
• Do not have analog face buttons on the controllers. I hack a lot of controllers, and that feature is really annoying on PS3.
• Fix the D-pad by spending 3 more cents on a secondary PCB for it.
• Has a new hi-polygon version of Fallout 4 that doesn’t run on older consoles or even my PC.

I do almost all of my gaming these days on PC – much better graphics, faster loading time and free online play.

But there is one aspect of console gaming that is better than PC and that’s analog control of your character in the X Y plane using the left thumbstick.

In the latest episode of our show I tackle this problem by building a PC gaming keyboard with Analog WASD keys. How hard – or rather far – you press the keys, the faster your character moves in that direction.

To those who might ask “Why not just use a Teensy HID as joystick?” the answer is I tried but it wouldn’t map to the same axis as an Xbox 360 controller. Xbox 360 controller “just works” on most games since they’re just console ports anyway (next generation please get here already!)

Download Case Files and Code for this project.

Season 3 of our show begins with a 2 part episode in which we build an Anti-Teen-Texting Device that parents can install in their kid’s car. Of course in my day this problem would have been solved by 1) cell phones barely existing 2) my parents would never have bought me one if they had 3) they also didn’t buy me a car …but I digress.

More photos and info can be found below.

The device consists of an MCU (the ever-useful ATMEGA328) a hand-wired MicroSD card for datalogging, and a really loud siren.

The device works by detecting the amount of current being drawn by the MicroUSB charge jack. Current being drawn = phone in dock = no alarm.

If the car is started without the phone in the jack your teen has about 10 seconds to stick it in, else there’s an alarm and the infraction is logged to the SD card.

Download Case Files and Code for this project.

We’re doing a small batch of Xbox 360 laptops for Holiday Season 2012. This was the unit we built on Episode 52 of the Ben Heck Show.

• Cost: $2000 US + shipping (appx $20 continental US)
• Size: 15″ x 9″ x 2.1″ (381 x 228 x 53.5 mm)
• Weight: 7.5 pounds (3.4 kilograms)
• Screen Size: 15.6″ widescreen VGA
• Built-in stereo speakers
• Based off the $199 4 gig Xbox 360 model.
• Power Source: Standard Xbox 360 Slim PSU Brick
• External ports: HDMI (disables LCD when used) S/PDIF, 2 USB front, 3 USB rear

For a lot more photos and information click here. If you’re interested in buying one please email me.

To pre-answer 2 of the most common questions: Yes, it works on Xbox Live and No, I don’t take systems in trade.

“It’s the most expensive 3 legged machine ever built!”

If you’re going to the Chicago Pinball Expo later this week, be sure to check out our panel at 4:00 PM Friday, October 19th!

It’s “The Mystery and Science of Pinball Theater”! See our amazing video riff of classic Bally-Williams promo videos, using Spooky Pinball’s perfect replicas of some famous hot-glue robots. This is followed by a live “game show” where the audience can win a bunch of great prizes from Spooky Pinball sponsors.

Also at the show, look for Ben Heck Zombie Adventureland T-shirts that can be signed by myself, John Popadiuk, or both!

Hope to see you all there!

printrbotGO and a Companion Cube. Click for larger version

I just can’t stop building portable 3D printers! Check out my new printrbotGO – an all new design in collaboration with printrbot.com

The goal here was to create an interesting, functional, sturdy design and then have it be available pre-built or as a kit. This is the first prototype and will be demonstrated at World Maker Faire New York weekend of September 28th – 30th.

Specs:

• Printrboard electronics, steppers, pulleys, extruders and hot ends (all existing commodity parts from one source)
• Print size 200mm x 185mm x 150mm. Not sure why I lost that 15mm on the Y axis, will probably have that at 200 as well in the future.
• Runs off a wall wart power brick or internal Li-Polymer batteries. We estimate 2 hours print time in PLA.
• Folds up to a size of 19″ x 14.5″ x 5.5″ – can fit in a plane’s overhead bin.
• Much smaller “deployed” footprint than my previous models.

For lots of build photos and more details, click below!

printrbotGO Making Of

The process started by making a custom mount for the printrbot Wooden Laser Cut extruder. I seem to have misplaced those photos. I always start with the extruder since a) it’s the heart of the system b) it’s a known size that can’t be adjusted, thus everything must be designed around it.

Here is the X carriage guide before the rods were put in. This assembly also has the captive nuts that drive the Z up and down.

This printer uses the standard printrbot 10 tooth XL pulleys – this particular one was printed off Thingiverse. Since this photo I’ve used their nice new plastic cast pulleys. This printer uses the smaller printrbot steppers so as to be compact as possible.

Top view of the motor. The 2 holes to the left of it are for the Z rod and Z screw drive. I offset them from each other (that is, they are not in a straight line row) to add a bit of stability. You can also see the X axis pulley and the X home limit switch.

End view of the previous assembly. Note the linear bearing captive between the wood layers, and the 2 end caps for the X axis rods.

The completed X carriage. It has cross-supports on both sides to make this unit as rigid as possible. Though it printed well, my previous portable printer was a bit wobbly, so I’m going overboard on this one.

Now comes the Y carriage. This is a RepRap style machine, which means the print head itself moves left and right, but the Y axis moves the printed object itself. I prefer this method because it evens out the work each axis has to do.

Think of it this way, if you move the print head itself in X, Y and Z, the Y axis must move the X and Z axis, and the X must move the Z.

Using the RepRap method the only axis with “double duty” is Z, as it must lift the X carriage up and down. However Z is the least important (as it moves far, far less often than X and Y)

The linear bearings are “captured” between the layers of wood and secured with lock nuts. The large gaps you see are so this frame can pass over the Y axis stepper motor and idler pulley.

On one end of the Y axis the rods go into special end caps that can slide left and right a small amount. This helps the machine to “self align” itself.

The sides of the Y carriage assembly have special rails. These will allow the carriage to slide in and out of the main printer body. Having the entire Y carriage move was the key to keeping this unit’s footprint as small as possible.

Next we check that the Y carriage can fully move to either end. It didn’t quite make it to the 200mm I was shooting for, I’ll probably figure out the problem in the next revision.

Here is the base of the unit. Note how the Z motor wiring has its own little path under where the Y carriage will slide. The small holes on the inner side pieces are where the Y carriage pivot bolts will be.

Wiring wrangling is one of the toughest parts in any project, especially one like this. The trick I came up with, was to have the Y carriage “disconnect” when you fold the unit back up. A pair of header jacks make this possible.

The above shows the 3 stage test of the folding mechanism.

1. Y carriage is upright, acting as the side of the unit.
2. Y carriage rotates down and out, 90 degrees.
3. Y carriage slides into main unit, connects the cabling and is ready to go!

The printer without the front and back on. At this time I can finally do a test print!

It’s that thing from that Doctor Who show I’ve never seen. (Yes, I know, I just lost Geek Points)

The main wiring inside the unit. It uses a standard printrboard (works great!) and I used an old slide switch I’ve had laying around for years to select from external or internal power. There’s an ON/OFF switch after that, and an LED indicator light. SD card and microUSB ports are accessible on the left side of the unit. You can also see the Z home limit switch as well.

The rear of the unit has a pair of “barn doors”

When the Y carriage is pushed through, it opens the spring loaded doors. The doors also help keep the unit stable as they are flush with the table but the Y carriage is not (it sits above the 12mm thick unit base)

Front of the unit. The bottom of the Y carriage is well sanded to help it slide in smoothly. It was meant to fit tightly so it’d be sturdy, but this also means it has to be super flush and flat. On the left you can see the main ON/OFF switch, power select switch, and external wall wart power input.

Well that’s about all I have to say about the printrbotGO portable 3D printer! Stay tuned for details on how you can order your own, in the meantime here’s a demo video:

For more information on printrbot parts and electronics, check out printrbot.com!

Just a reminder, I’ll be at the 2012 New York Maker Faire showing off some cool new gadgets, including a demonstration on the Arduino stage on Sunday at 2:30.

http://makerfaire.com/newyork/2012/index.html

I should also have some TV shirts and other swag. Hope to see some of you there!

I love coming up with solutions for not-terribly-obvious problems, such as how it’s really difficult to put Saran wrap around a half-eaten can of Spam.

So after several attempts to get the fit “just right” I have created the Spam-Saver Lid, which you can download and 3D print from Thingiverse! Happy printing and good eats!

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30372

California Extreme Website

A nice slice of Pi. Click for larger version.

For the latest episode of the Ben Heck show we built a retro-style case for the Raspberry Pi single board computer.

Features include:

• Power switch and standard barrel power plug / wall wart.
• Card-edge connector (cartridge slot) for easy general purpose I/O breakout.
• Custom PCB’s for experimentation and learning.
• Hinged keyboard allowing easy access to internals and storage for experimentation parts.

To see how it was built and the unit in action, visit element14.com/tbhs.

Click for larger version.