Comments on: Sneak peak – Pelican Case Xbox 360 designed for Overseas Active Service Use

By: Xbox 360 Laptops, Update #4 | talonsalbert's magical land of gumdrops

Xbox 360 Laptops, Update #4 | talonsalbert's magical land of gumdrops — Sun, 06 Mar 2011 04:51:22 +0000

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By: Silent Hysteria

Silent Hysteria — Fri, 13 Mar 2009 22:39:56 +0000

Damn Ben. I have an extra 360 that I need to replace the DVD drive in. You can bet your genius ass that I will be making one of these when I learn how to flash the key of the xbox for the DVD drive and replace it. Sick stuff man. I wish I new about this when I was in country. I definitely would have commissioned you to make me one.

Great job man!

Omar: Maybe I got lucky and killed you before I cam back. Some reason I doubt it though. You sound like a pussy…

By: Rattlehead

Rattlehead — Mon, 22 Dec 2008 20:29:33 +0000

Great job on the Pelican, my company sends equipment over there in those things all the time and it never comes back damaged. I actually got a slightly larger Storm Case (to have enough room to keep the 360 intact) recently to attempt a project like this, and I was wondering what you used for the display. I would like to use something with 1920 x 1200 resolution, but finding that res under 26 inches is tough.

By: Wotlkdude 23

Wotlkdude 23 — Mon, 01 Dec 2008 04:17:45 +0000

How do you plan on powering the thing if your not going to drill holes ?

By: Tels

Tels — Sun, 23 Nov 2008 10:43:50 +0000

Why not try get a slimline slot loading DVD drive (like apple macs use) and encase it in plastic, then mount it in the bottom half of the case?

Hinge the back of the drive and then mount it above the processing gubbins with a spring-load / push to release configuration at the front of the drive?

Upon releasing the drive it would go from horizontal (with top side of drive casing flush to the surface) and pop the front end up 20 degrees or so so the disc can be loaded…. would need some hacking of sensor circuits to make sure the disc wasn’t ejected when the drive was in the down position!

The benefit of this is that it would be reasonably small, dust-resistant and not require any cutting of the case, also the drive used would be left physically intact… more reliable and easier to replace.

Effectively, just like a top-load CD player lid mechanism… but instead of the lid, the whole drive pops up.

By: BoomBox-Creations

BoomBox-Creations — Tue, 18 Nov 2008 07:50:35 +0000

if you do need to put holes in the case, you could always fill it with some sort of silicon foam, thats waterproof,a nd then paint it the same black as the case.

By: Noah

Noah — Sun, 09 Nov 2008 23:42:58 +0000

Look cool. I could use one. Just add somemore about space issues and stuff. and will it have a space for the controllers. and a place for a memory card would be good.

By: brett

brett — Thu, 06 Nov 2008 23:18:16 +0000

any update on this?

By: xso3nx

xso3nx — Thu, 23 Oct 2008 03:32:06 +0000

also I would like to add that the heat ducts will be vented to the surface plate which means more cooling fans. and I may be using a 20 inch samsung monitor. also consider the 1495 case it has a bite more usable space inside. Good luck with you project!!!

By: xso3nx

xso3nx — Thu, 23 Oct 2008 03:20:48 +0000

Great work thus far as always. I must say that this a great idea. I am going to start a simular project but I am thinking of using a bigger case. Maybe the 1650 or 1520. I know with your expert knowledge I am sure you can make this work with the case that you have, me I have to use more space. I would like a brief “how to” for the top part of the case if you don’t mind sharing. I offer this idea to you. I am going to mount the mobo flat in the bottom, stand the dvd verticle so that I will be able to load thru an opening on the surface of the bottom part of the case. The PSU and any other junk will be mounted at the bottom as well inside the surface mount. The surface mount will have the ROL, power & eject buttons, sync button, ir sensor etc. Also depending on how I do the PSU I will either flush mount the 3 prong plug to the surface plate or use one of your brilliant ideas and do the ATX plug mod and mount it flush to the surface. I may also make A/V out to connect this beast to bigger screens and more speakers. If space permits (which it should) I will use some of the space to make a storage area for extra controllers. Yes I know the this will make it bigger but it will still be portable, especially if it has wheels. :) Just some food for thought.